Fimo vs Sculpey
#1
Posted 05 April 2006 - 12:11 PM
I've heard that fimo is tougher/stronger but harder to work with. That sculpey can be too brittle for things that will be handled a lot such as jewellery.
I've also heard Fimo is heavier than Sculpey and if this makes much of a difference on small items.
I have never seen the third brand mentioned in articles (Premo) so at the moment I'm keeping it to these two. Fimo is more expensive so if I can get away with Sculpey I might try that first.
What are your thoughts?
#2
Posted 05 April 2006 - 12:48 PM
#3
Posted 05 April 2006 - 01:19 PM
Maybe I'll just try sculpey first. I think from something I've been reading I could mix the bright red and bright yellow I got really cheap to make the orange I want.
If anyone else is interested here are tips on mixing sculpey colours
I ended up getting some sculpey to try... here is experiment one
#4
Posted 05 April 2006 - 10:45 PM
FIMO:
Before baking:
very crumbly and very hard to work into shape. But after kneading for a long time and warming with the hands it can be used to create some lovely shapes and can be pressed into moulds. It is quite firm though even when softened. Be careful, the richer colours can stain the hands and surfaces you are working on.
Baked:
Very solid. I've used it since I was a kid so it's basically what I hold the other makes to.
Sculpy III:
Before baking:
Very soft to work with, non crumbly quite sticky. Easily rolled into shapes for hands and fingers for dolls. Can be pressed into molds quite easily.
Baked:
not as dense feeling as FIMO. Slightly more flexible.
Super Sculpy:
Before Baking:
"Flesh" coloured in 1lb boxes. It feels like a powdery waxy material. The surface always seems to be matt rather than able to be made smooth and shiney. Very soft to work with, able to easily be pushed into molds.
Baked:
The waxy powdery feeling remains and it's slightly transluscent. Lighter even than Sculpy III
Dukit:
Before baking:
Rather soft and smooth. Doesn't really crumble but you do need to work it to get it soft enough.
Baked:
Quite rubbery. I wouldn't use it alone for a doll but could be used when a bit of stress is applied to the final product.
Cernit:
Before baking:
Extremely soft and pliable. Probably best for pushing into a mold as it will get too soft to work with when used for a while. You can pull it off the block and use it immediately. More tempermental, so work the air out of it as much as possible before forming to shape.
Baked:
Can be prone to looking scaley, which is why care needs to be taken in working with it. There is a reason this is loved by doll makers, the finished product is lovely. It's just fiddly to work with.
I have made mixtures of Dukit and FIMO and Super Sculpy. I've been lucky as I've generally cooked and cooled most items at a rate that allows for less cracking. But they can expand and contract at different rates so mixing is really best for experimental pieces;)
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~thebruce/art/ooak.htm
Those were all made from my mixtures. They were all made several years ago, some more than a decade;)
#5
Posted 09 August 2006 - 10:27 PM
It was HARD to work into a pliable state, and got sticky if too warm (from the heat of your hands)...
Shaping was ok otherwise.. but when I baked it? .. it expanded, and then BUBBLED some and ?burned .. I was using a gas oven, but lowest heat, used the time according to thickness etc
.. luckily the results hit a chord in me and I loved the chunky scoured cross that was the end result... which I used for a choker and still wear on occassion.
Since then I've stuck with AirDrying Clay... I first got some from Joanne's in TX/USA, but later found Arbee AirDrying Clay in ?? RIOT or some discount places like Crazy Clarks, or perhaps it was Spotlight...
This stuff is easy to work with and keep pliable, dries overnight (even less in our QLD heat), is very lightweight but I imagine reasonably durable. Can be painted/glossed with just about anything...
I've used it for fridge magnets, faux jewellry and the moment using it for the hairpieces and earrings for my Think Of Me/Phantom outfit....
BEST of all? .. its MUCH cheaper than ANY of the polymers..
I'm thinking I'll use it for my base for the upcoming Mask Workshop!
#6
Posted 10 August 2006 - 10:34 AM
I've used white, coloured clay and it was WAY too heavy for the task I used it for and also incredibly brittle. I was devistated when the star on the end of my Selphie (Final Fantasy VII) nun-chucks smashed apart (even with a coating of paint and resin. ) It was however very cheap for a large amount of it.
I've used the expensive white modelling, air-drying clay from Lincraft. It was a lot less brittle, less heavy but very sticky so I found it hard to work with.
I've also used an air-drying clay from Japan that is predominantly produced for kids to use. This was not tacky at all, extremly lightweight (more so than anything else I've ever used) BUT it dried with lots of cracks which were hard to paint over - and I've not yet found it in Australia (granted, I haven't been looking for it either,
#7
Posted 10 August 2006 - 11:18 AM
#8
Posted 10 August 2006 - 08:11 PM
#9
Posted 10 August 2006 - 11:34 PM
Not sure where to get it in Qld, but the web site is:
www.metalclay.com.au
Have a look and have a try, it is quite cheap I thought and easy to use.
#10
Posted 27 November 2006 - 04:35 PM
Not only is it a dream to work with, but smoothing it out is easy, and if it breaks after baking (which is unlikely) it's the simplest thing in the world to repair.
#11
Posted 20 December 2006 - 02:46 PM
Not sure where to get it in Qld, but the web site is:
www.metalclay.com.au
Have a look and have a try, it is quite cheap I thought and easy to use.
I just came accross this site the other day too. It seems so surreal that you can get a clay that becomes 99.9% silver when heated.
I am eager to try this one out (and the syringe version of it for filagree work), but am wondering how others have gone with it. Like how quickly it dried, and if there were any problems with shrinkage and cracking etc.
I think the the paste might be fabulous for creating LOTR tunic clasps by painting it onto leaves, but don't know how strong it would be.
Can anyone tell me more about it from personal use?
#12
Posted 20 December 2006 - 05:29 PM
#13
Posted 20 December 2006 - 06:50 PM
Thanx Starfire Phoenix-
Wow, cool. There's some extensive detail about how she's made stuff.
Definately gonna have to give this material a go now! Ohhh, the choices....
#14
Posted 20 December 2006 - 08:03 PM
#15
Posted 21 April 2007 - 01:08 PM
I have used it for lots of things and have had only one breakage through no falt of my own. Drama teacher dropped it!!!!
I made the centre buckle for Eowyn's gold belt but decided to make it in metal instead for durabilitys sake.
I think it is great for making jewllery too. Today I am making two sets of Jewellery.
1) Scarlett O'Hara's coral necklace that she wears to the BBQ, and
2) Princess Leia's Cerimonal necklace and bracelet.
Here is some of my tips
1) Use backing paper on your work surface. I tape it down on a old tile. It makes it easier not to stick.
2) Do NOT use a wood surface as your work station unless you have covered it with someting!!!!
3) It can dry out but if you can use a spray bottle and you can re work it.
4) it burns so watch it
5) if you want to make it stronger, insert wire into the clay, it helps things not to brake off if knocked.
6) It can be painted so if you need it in a certain colour all you need is paint. I Use folk art paints i find them easy to work with and come in every colour under the sun.
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