7 replies to this topic

[Metanoia]

I'm looking at making a wand as a prop for a costume due to be finished in July and was wondering what the results of a paper/clay type substance like Das would be using a piece of dowel (broom handle type pole) for the staff and building up a small amount for the base of the wand one end and a larger and more complex shape for the other end.

What other substances would be recommended? I need something sturdy, that will take paint. I know Das dries solid and can be sanded and painted.

Its something along the lines of these: (but not these... don't want to give it away just yet)

[El Presidente]

Good old Paper Mache should work too - see the next issue of cOZtume, for Steve's article on how he built his amazing 'dragon' for the Ball (from paper mache!). If you make the mushy sort you should be able to mould it similarly to clay, and it would be a lot lighter....

[Reactor drone]

Depending on the scale a 2 part epoxy putty would work.Knead it is about $13 a tube and sets very fast so you have to be quick with it.You might be able to get milliput from a hobby store,similar type of stuff but it gives you a longer working time to add detail and poke and prod it into shape.

For a bigger shape I've seen people use expanding foam gap filler to build up shapes(good if it's a more organic design)It can also be cut and carves a bit once it's dried and can be overcoated with papier maché or other paper clays.

[springonion]

Hi! I'm a beginner to making props too, but my friend, who does Industrial design has been helping me (well, as much as he can without doing it himself -.-).
I'm wanting to make big staffs too ^^; but its really complicated T_T

This is what he e-mailed me concerning a small dragon prop I was trying out ^^;;

******
The cheap way is to sculpt it out of urethane foam, and coat it with spray putty. You might get slightly less detail and it might need to be a little oversize, but it will be much cheaper ($20 or $30) and still look very good. The best thing for the handle would be yellow, blue or grey type urethane foam which is what we use in ID. You start with a block and sculpt it by cutting and sanding, and it stays pretty strong. Problem is I have no idea where you'd get it... (sorry!)

The fun way involves an air-drying modelling clay called "DAS". It takes a LOT of practice to get used to but it's fun!

The ghetto way is to sculpt it out of aluminium foil! You could then skim coat it with real putty or filler. This costs basically nothing and is very quick and easy to do, so you can do lots of practice runs!
*****

From what I've tried so far (not much lol) DAS is great but its pretty delicate if you're doing very finely detailed things, and (sorry if this sounds stupid, I didnt realise this was the case) if you do it solid then its likely to crack.

Anyway, these are just what he reccomended to me x.x; So I'm not sure how they work in detail. And, I've only had a chance to try out DAS... so if you find anything that works out well please tell me too!

[Reactor drone]

Hi! I'm a beginner to making props too, but my friend, who does Industrial design has been helping me (well, as much as he can without doing it himself -.-).
I'm wanting to make big staffs too ^^; but its really complicated T_T

This is what he e-mailed me concerning a small dragon prop I was trying out ^^;;

******
The cheap way is to sculpt it out of urethane foam, and coat it with spray putty. You might get slightly less detail and it might need to be a little oversize, but it will be much cheaper ($20 or $30) and still look very good. The best thing for the handle would be yellow, blue or grey type urethane foam which is what we use in ID. You start with a block and sculpt it by cutting and sanding, and it stays pretty strong. Problem is I have no idea where you'd get it... (sorry!)

If you can get urethane foam that's ideal.The expanding foam is basically urethane foam in a can but it's a little springy since it was meant for house repairs.

I can get polystyrene foam which can be carved the same way but it will be dissolved by aerosol paints,enamel paint,super glue,epoxy glue.....just about everything you can coat it with epoxy fibreglassing resin and then paint and glue it.

The best bet for finding urethane foam is if you know someone who makes surfboards...or if you have an old surfboard that you want to cut up.

here's a cyberman lower leg carved from polystyrene foam.

[springonion]

If you can get urethane foam that's ideal.The expanding foam is basically urethane foam in a can but it's a little springy since it was meant for house repairs.

I can get polystyrene foam which can be carved the same way but it will be dissolved by aerosol paints,enamel paint,super glue,epoxy glue.....just about everything you can coat it with epoxy fibreglassing resin and then paint and glue it.

With the foam, how exactly do you cut it? Do you need big electric tools or can you use hand ones? And, is the foam very heavy? Well, is your leg very heavy ^^;

Sorry, lol! When ever I hear foam I think of styrofoam -.-; so I keep thinking its little bubbles stuck together.

[Reactor drone]

With the foam, how exactly do you cut it? Do you need big electric tools or can you use hand ones? And, is the foam very heavy? Well, is your leg very heavy ^^;

Sorry, lol! When ever I hear foam I think of styrofoam -.-; so I keep thinking its little bubbles stuck together.

Hand tools work fine.I mostly rough shape using a rasp then smooth out with files and sandpaper.You can use an electric sander.

It is exactly styrofoam so it's very light,slightly different to packing foam though.Foam packaging is small foam beads like bean bag beads squished together into a shape but this is one foam panel so it can be cut and sanded without coming apart in chunks.

Regarding urethane foam,if it's a small piece one of those foam florist's bricks can be used.They're urethane foam and very quick and easy to sand and file into shape and you can harden the finished shape up with regular polyester fibreglassing resin then a liberal coat of spray primer putty to smooth out the bumps.Might still be a little brittle but it'll survive regular handling.

[Metanoia]

From my experience with florist bricks though any firm touch will cause marking. Possibly not the best to make a prized prop out of.