14 replies to this topic

[Lealan]

When i was visiting in Vic my old library had old videos and books out for sale. Clearing old stock or unwanted stock. Anyways, I scored a couple of old sewing tapes for about 50 cents each. They were old but full of interesting tips and some insightful sewing tricks.


One of the ones that I found really interesting is that the host suggests that anyone who sews keep a balloon in their sewing box. For embroidery or any hand sewing it can be used to pull the needle through thick or difficult fabric. The latex/rubber of the balloon acts as a grip on the metal (which saves me from biting the needles again).

An added bonus was that the tapes were able to put a friend to sleep better than any medication or homeopathy remedy he had be able to find.


Please share any useful tips that you have that might make sewing easier or more enjoyable for others?


Cheers, Lea

[Cat M]

most of my tips are the really basic things like

1) regularly oil your sewing machine

2) FOR MERCEY'S SAKES USE AN IRON TO PRESS SEAMS
(Lauren and Dajana have had this drummed into them by me. they say it as a mantra as they sew)

3) Buy yourself one of the awfully fine sewing guides. My bible at home is the Reader's Digest Sewing Guide. Such books have illustrated instructions on how to do anything and everything to do with sewing.

4) never try to put in a zip without tacking/basting it in first.

5) use a needle appropriate to the task you are doing. There are different kinds of needles because they do different jobs.

6) if your needle doesn't want to slide through fabric, you can 'lube' it up a little by rubbing it in your hair. The natural oil will coat it slightly and make it slide through a little easier.

7) to keep embroidery threads organised I make a colour-board by punching holes around the border of a piece of sturdy cardboard. I then write the number of the embroidery flosses beside each hole. When I am finished stitching with a colour, I can loop it through the appropriate hole and back on itself in a loose kind of knot.

8) on a garment that will have the hem near the ground, always take the time to blind hem rather than just whip-stitching else you can be sure that the hem will catch on heels, twigs or anything else and pull.

[wenz]

My 2c worth: cutting out a costume after a couple of vodka-lime-&-soda's is not a Good Idea.

[nymph]

For gods sake put alll your sewing materials away properly,
Trying to pull a tapestry needle out of your foot at 2.00am in the morning in the dark
IS NOT FUN
Its actually quite painfull

[Last_Chael]

For gods sake put alll your sewing materials away properly,
Trying to pull a tapestry needle out of your foot at 2.00am in the morning in the dark
IS NOT FUN
Its actually quite painfull

On that note, carpet is a menace in a sewing area/room. I'm notorious for dropping pins all over the floor, so I love that we've now gotten rid of all the carpet, and have beautiful polished wood floors

However, it's not always possible to find an area without carpet, so I find the pins with coloured heads are great for finding easily, and if you are working on carpet, put down some plastic or something of that sort to stop pins going into the carpet.

[DonnaLee]

most of my tips are the really basic things like

1) regularly oil your sewing machine

2) FOR MERCEY'S SAKES USE AN IRON TO PRESS SEAMS

4) never try to put in a zip without tacking/basting it in first.

5) use a needle appropriate to the task you are doing. There are different kinds of needles because they do different jobs.

YES YES YES YES! I can't stress enough those suggestions, it really is the difference between an amateur and professional look to your sewing - especially number 2!!!! And do change your needle regularly (usually a new needle for a new project) - I remember a friend of mine tell me that she hadn't changed her needle for 2 years - I was astonished especially as she did a lot of patchwork.

I used to pin my fabric together with the pins at right angles and sew over the top (It was the tip of a very experienced dressmaker and it really did save a lot of time), but I have been told since then, when I bought my new machine, NOT to do this as it mucks up the timing of the machine.

[wenz]

I used to pin my fabric together with the pins at right angles and sew over the top (It was the tip of a very experienced dressmaker and it really did save a lot of time), but I have been told since then, when I bought my new machine, NOT to do this as it mucks up the timing of the machine.

wellll, so long as you don't actually hit one of the pins it's ok, cos that's when you'll muck up the timing. I know it's a bad habbit but after 30+ years I'm careful but still risk it!

[DonnaLee]

wellll, so long as you don't actually hit one of the pins it's ok, cos that's when you'll muck up the timing. I know it's a bad habbit but after 30+ years I'm careful but still risk it!

Good to know - I actually at times still do this (like when sewing gathering or batting for a quilt) as it is much easier to keep things together. I could baste together before sewing - blah - nah.

I used to do this ALL the time on my old machine and it didn't seem to make any difference (I did occasionally hit a pin). But since I have got my new computerised one I thought it might be different.

[Lady Jane]

Hi everyone. Here's my 2 cents worth.

1. Organise your sewing space as efficiently as you can, with all your tools and equipment handy. If it must all be packed away every time you stop sewing, do it methodically so you can find everything next time. I have large plastic bins under the table and stacked on the floor, bookshelves and containers for folders of pictures and magazines and a pin board for patterns and pictures. I am very lucky because I have a dedicated sewing room but I used to sew on the dining room table many years ago, and that was a PAIN!!!
2. Keep your equipment serviced, your scissors and cutting wheels sharp, your pins straight and sharp.
3. My steam iron and pressing cloth ( I use muslin so it is opaque) are my best friends, and I press every seam as I work. Hemming up garments after marking them is easier over the ironing board too.
4. I like to add shoulder pads, chest pads etc. to make things hang better, and I often construct them from wadding pieces covered with interlock fabric so they don't slip off shoulders etc.
5. I often mount fabric that is not ideal but is a great colour/texture/effect on pre-washed cotton drill. Lay all the fashion fabric on the drill matching grains wrong sides together, pin and cut out then tack around within seam allowances. Now your too thin fabric, or stretch fabric which you want not to stretch in certain places, can be treated as one piece from now on.
6. I use gold safety pins for alterations at fittings, especially when I can't do the sewing straight away. Less chance than a straight pin of falling out. Oh, and I ALWAYS use glass headed straight pins, you can iron them and they don't melt and stick to your iron and your fabric.

Don't want to overload the thread, hope these little hints are helpful. Most of them are learnt by trial and error although some were drummed into me at College and by my mum, who taught me how to sew in the first place. Christine.

[Metanoia]

After being told to oil my machine regularly... and deciding to be a good girl... I searched everywhere for oil spots and read my manual only to find that my lubbley computerised machine doesn't take oil at all.

But my new overlocker that I'm still learning about does.... are there any tips for overlockers at all? Mine is a base line Singer.

[El Presidente]

Because I've been sewing for <ahem> years, I forget that some of the things I take for granted, aren't things that everyone was taught, so as I'm reminded of things (like on the weekend ) I'm going to add them to this thread.

Tip #236: When winding a bobbin on the machine (as opposed to hand winding them, which the purists will do) make sure you take it slowly. The reason? Sewing thread has ply (this means 2 or more threads are twisted together to make a single thread) so the faster the thread runs though the tensioner the tighter it's pulled and the more twist (or untwist) it gets as it winds on to the bobbin. Over (or under) twist in your thread is bad - it means it more likely to tangle.

Which has just made me think of a related tip...
Tip #237: When hand sewing, always thread the needle from the already cut end, not the one you've just cut. (The easy way to remember this is to thread your needle before you cut the thread off the reel.) Because of the direction the thread is twisted (the ply), this will reduce the chance of it tangling as you sew.

If it helps you make more sense of both of these tips, cut a length of thread from a reel of cotton and pinch it at one end running your finger nail down the length. Look at the other end as you do this and you should see it spinning around as the ply untwists. Now do it starting at the other end. One will twist much faster than the other.

Tip #237a: Running it through a block of beeswax helps too. Minute amounts of wax will adhere to the thread, filling in the gaps between the ply, so it's less likely to twist as you pull it through the fabric.

[DonnaLee]

Tip #237: When hand sewing, always thread the needle from the already cut end, not the one you've just cut. (The easy way to remember this is to thread your needle before you cut the thread off the reel.) Because of the direction the thread is twisted (the ply), this will reduce the chance of it tangling as you sew.

I was told this too by the lady who taught me to sew (properly). I wasn't quite sure if I believed her or not, but I did as I was told - so thank you, you have definately have confirmed it for me. She also said that you should also only use 1 thread while hand sewing as compared to a double thread (ie thread the needle and bring both ends together and knot) for the same reason the ply will be running against one another. True?

PS thanks so much for the unlimited access to your knowledge and guidance during the weekend, I had a fabulous time.

[El Presidente]

She also said that you should also only use 1 thread while hand sewing as compared to a double thread (ie thread the needle and bring both ends together and knot) for the same reason the ply will be running against one another. True?

Actually, I can't confirm this one - I've so rarely used a double thread
But from memory, a double thread is used for some tailoring applications, but I think that's also used waxed so I guess that would help there too. As far as normal dressmaking goes though, except when tailor tacking by hand, I can't think of any hand sewing that you'd really want to use double thread. So maybe that's just what she was trying to get across.

Glad you had a good time at the workshops - I had a ball too

[Pinstripes]

I always use a double thread for sewing on buttons and hooks/eyes, but I've never had much of a problem with tangled threads.

[Metanoia]

Tip #237: When hand sewing, always thread the needle from the already cut end, not the one you've just cut. (The easy way to remember this is to thread your needle before you cut the thread off the reel.) Because of the direction the thread is twisted (the ply), this will reduce the chance of it tangling as you sew.

I tried this with linen thread and it helped extremely. Sewing was so easy compared to my memories of it.

Also I'm going to remember this for my embroidery too as I sometimes get excessive tangles when using particular pre-cut strands. I guess if I check first that would eliminate most of my tangle problems.

Thanks heaps.

Tip #236: When winding a bobbin on the machine (as opposed to hand winding them, which the purists will do) make sure you take it slowly.

I've started doing this now. I used to just do it as quickly as possible. I haven't noticed a difference yet, but if it stops even one annoying breakage then it is worth is.