11 replies to this topic

[Metanoia]

Before I get too carried away, quick question.

I used Vlisoflex instead of Interfacing just now because I can't find the metre of interfacing I bought only last week.

Does Vlisoflex have the same stiffening properties, or is it just a glue with a paper backing?

I ask because I don't want the nice stiffness that I have now to degrade as the glue wears or something silly like that.

[Atory]

I can't guarantee it but every time I've used the stuff it's remained stiff.

[LadySilverSpider]

I used that brilliant stuff on my Wonder Woman costume to put on all the stars and the eagle emblem - it does not stiffen it just glues so you can sew stuff on harder or cheat when you have run out of time to sew It's cool stuff! - I know it doesn't stiffen because Wonder Woman has a lot of stars on her butt.....sitting in the costume is not uncomfortable

[LadySilverSpider]

Oh yeah - be careful when and where you are ironing because it will stick anything and any spot you iron onto the other material

Edited by LadySilverSpider, 05 March 2007 - 08:21 AM.

[Metanoia]

yeah I've used vlisoflex heaps before, but as a sticker, not as a stiffener. And while the stiffening worked well I worry about its longevity if it is just a glue. It needs to last for at least two full day wears and it is around my wrist, so probably a high use area.

Perhaps I should just wear my trial version a bit and see what happens...

Any other opinions.

[El Presidente]

I personally prefer the woven, sew-in interfacings (eg. 'Shapewell') rather than non-woven, iron-on on ones (eg. 'Vilene'). Admittedly the glue technology has improved significantly over the years, but when I first started sewing I always had trouble with getting it to stick (and not come unstuck in a hot wash) - if you sew it in, it's not going anywhere

But the point of this ramble is you don't have to use iron-on Vilene as an interfacing. You just need to use an appropriately heavy/stiff fabric as an interlining. If you're desperate you can use something out of your stash.

To do this for a cuff (for example) you cut out the outside and inside cuff pieces in your fabric as you would normally, and also cut out (the same size) whatever you are using as a stiffener. Put your fabric right side to right side as normal, and place the stiffener on one of the wrong sides. Stitch all three together around the 3 sides (as normal) and the trim away the seam allowance of the stiffener, close to the stitching line - about 1-2mm close, ie. not so close it's going to pull away from the stitching but close enough it's not going to interfere when you turn the cuff. Turn the cuff right side out, and then stitch the side that has the stiffener to the garment (and hand stitch the lining down to cover that stitching and enclose the raw edges).

But back to your original query, Vlisoflex should work depending on how stiff your fabric is in the first place. I used it for Jo's skirt for the Ball Poster costume - that was 2 layers of georgette, stuck together with Vlisoflex. So that made it noticeably stiffer that one layer of georgette. But if you're using something heavier like a drill, it probably won't make a signifiant difference. For added security, though I'd be tempted to 'topstitch' to hold it down, and the two layers together, since Vlisoflex's primary use is to secure an applique to the fabric while you're sewing it down.

[Metanoia]

Actually its cotton lycra, and the part in question is a glove cuff - so tight until the wrist, then supposed to stick out from the arm.

What I've done is made the "cuff" part twice as wide and taken advantage fo the fact vlisoflex is double sided to fold the cuff in half and stick it down hoping I didn't have to hem one part... but the shape is off so I think I will have to anyway... hmm... So in effect, two layers of lycra and a layer of vlisoflex.

It is starting to peel off a little where the fold ends, but there is no visible seam there in my source pic so I am trying to minimise visible stitching. So basically I'm doing it all in two parts (top and bottom of hand) with only the cuff with facing...

Concerns are... wearability for at least total of two full days. And travellability.. will it crush flat and never be right again...

I have some iron on interfacing today so I might try that as well...

I tried the facing and to be honest it doesn't seem as stiff as the vlisoflex (and I put it on the wrong side so turning it ended up well... lets just say I'm not happy all round. lol. silly mistakes)

Should I try two layers of facing... or should I try a layer of facing with vlisoflex added, then sewn, turned and ironed down so the vlisoflex sticks the material side of the facing to the other side of the cuff....???

[El Presidente]

OK, I think I see what you're doing.

Yes, vlisoflex should work to sandwich two layers in that instance, though the stretch of the fabric may pull away from the 'glue' over time. You could also try painting it with PVA, watering it down as you get to the wrist so where you stop isn't so noticable. That's what I did with the spiky ends of Jo's gloves for the poster costume, though I didn't do the watering down bit because the colouring disguised it.

If your cuff is flared at all from the wrist, you won't be able to just fold it over to line it, because the flare is bigger the further you go away from the wrist. You could cut wedges out to make it fit, but that would be very fiddly. You could cut a 'lining' the same shape as the 'cuff' and just vlisofix them together - the vlisofix should stop the ends from fraying. If you have spare fabric though I'd try the PVA, just incase it alters the look of the fabric more than you want. (The downside of PVA is you don't want to get it wet because is washes off/out)

[Metanoia]

Ahh yes... its all starting to make sense.

If the vlisoflex will hold it firm enough then I think I will just use that because in the end it was easier and I was much more accurate and sucessful with actually making that trial version.

It does have a flair which is the reason for the stiffener and all these headaches, and yes I've already worked out it will need the corners shaped with trial version #2, which I didn't think of initially. But I was thinking just now that since I actually need to sew trim around the edge of the cuff will probably completely solve any fraying problems if as you say the vlisoflex will hold it down.

I've already found that after putting the glove on again tonight the inside of the cuff is pulling away on one side of the vlisoflex, but I guess a few tiny inconspicuous stitches would hold that and stop it pulling away too much.

Can vlisoflex be re-ironed or is it a one glue wonder?

I've used about 1/4m of lycra already, but I bought a full metre of this expensive stuff fully expecting to have issues with these things.

[El Presidente]

Can vlisoflex be re-ironed or is it a one glue wonder?

Umm, actually, I've never tried this - I've not need to for the things I've used it for. I would think it would re-stick though - give it a try?

[mdb]

It should be a one glue wonder! It sticks because of the melting of the glue which works its way between the fibres. Often though it's really hard to press at the right temp and pressure to get it to do that.

The last product I used was Heat 'n' Bond so I may be a little biased, but that stuff is wonderful! It really sticks in well and is perfect for appliques and the like. It is a little stiff, but then I chose a rather heavy kind.

[Metanoia]

I'm working on sewing down the trim by hand (slow process), and I put some tiny stitches on the inside of the wrist where noone will notice. So far so good...

Thanks for everyones help on this one. A few days ago I was ready to scrap the whole costume over these infernal gloves.